New Here? Start Here
Five steps to go from curious to wired up. You can be riding along in minutes.
Pro tip — use the Discord app, not your browser
Cam and voice work far more reliably on the native Discord app (desktop or mobile). If you can’t install it, use Chrome or Edge on desktop — Firefox and Safari have known cam issues with Discord.
Download Discord →Join the Discord
Everything happens on our Discord server — sessions, chat, support. Click here to join. You'll need to verify your age (18+) before accessing channels.
Get Your Gear Ready
You need an e-stim power box (like an E-Stim Systems 2B or DG-Lab Coyote) and a way to route audio to it. Most sessions use your device's audio output as the stim signal. Check our Recommended Gear page.
Set Up Audio Routing
For live sessions and the Stimbot, the e-stim signal comes through your browser or Discord audio. Set your e-stim box to receive audio from your PC/phone. The e l e c t r o n guide below covers this in detail.
Try the 24/7 Stimbot
Jump into the #Auto Driving channel anytime — the Stimbot is always running. It's the easiest way to test your setup and get your first ride. See the Stimbot guide for details.
Join a Sunday Drive
The flagship community event — every Sunday at 7:30 PM UK time. Sir Thorn drives live via e l e c t r o n while everyone rides together on voice chat. Check the Discord Events tab for the next one.
Common Questions From Newcomers
Researched the hobby for weeks and still not sure what to buy? These are the questions we get most often, and the honest answers.
Which power box should I start with?
You have options, and none of them are wrong. The right answer depends on your budget and where you want to end up.
DG-Lab Coyote 3.0 — Entry point with community integration
Bluetooth-driven rather than a stereo box, but we've adapted e l e c t r o n and the web games to drive it, so you can participate in group events and shared experiences from day one. That's a real practical advantage when you're starting.
E-Stim Systems 2B — The industry standard
The box most people are working toward and the benchmark everything else gets measured against. If budget allows, starting here isn't jumping ahead — it's just skipping a step. Built for audio-driven stereostim from the ground up.
Tingler — Serious stereo box contender
Worth real consideration if true stereostim is the goal. The 2B processes audio in its own particular way; the Tingler doesn't have that same quirk. Available assembled for ~$189, which makes it significantly more affordable than a 2B while still being a genuine stereo box.
ErosTek ET-312 — Legendary but scarce
Excellent box, but rare and expensive — hen's teeth. Don't count on finding one easily. If you do, grab it.
TENS 7000 — Skip it
Not optimised for this use. Put that money toward proper e-stim kit instead. It's a medical TENS unit, not designed for audio-driven stim or sensual play patterns.
FOC Box — The new frontier
Not a commercial product — you order the parts or join a group buy and put it together yourself. In the last year or so we've started seeing FOC-based projects that kind of blow everything else out of the water. Still very new territory and rapidly evolving.
Will e-stim desensitise me?
No — not in any meaningful or lasting way, and this concern keeps a lot of people on the fence unnecessarily.
E-stim doesn't damage nerve endings with normal use. What people sometimes experience is temporary adaptation — your nervous system gets accustomed to a particular waveform, which is why varying frequency, waveform type, and electrode placement matters. That's a session-level thing, not permanent. Many users actually report increased body awareness and sensitivity over time, which will sound familiar if you're coming from an Aneros or similar background.
Safety rule for beginners: "Nothing above the waist." Specialised bi-polar electrodes exist for nipple play, but leave this to more advanced users. Current across the chest is dangerous. Keep everything below the navel. See our full safety guide before your first session.
What is "ghost-fucking" and do I need stereostim for it?
Ghost-fucking is the sensation of an electrode appearing to move inside you on its own — thrusting, pulsing, and shifting position without anything physical moving. It's created by the signal, not by motion.
No, you don't need stereostim for it. Pulse-based devices can produce this effect too. But electrode quality and placement is everything — cheap pads and loose contacts give you surface buzz instead of the deep, moving contraction that makes ghost-fucking work.
What electrodes should I actually buy?
The negative reviews on Coyote's own electrodes are mostly valid — contact consistency is hit or miss and the sensation tends toward surface buzz rather than deep contraction. The 3.0 rings are better but still not the top tier for serious play.
For insertables, the undisputed benchmark is E-Stim Systems. Their precision-machined aluminium line — the Moaner, the Tripler, the newer MWCBP — delivers even, consistent contact with full conductivity and no material degradation. Don't treat these as a future upgrade — if ghost-fucking is the goal, they're the right tool from the start.
For cock rings and loops:
- ▸Conductive rubber loops — cheap, forgiving, good for early experimentation.
- ▸Joanne's 3D-printed loops — highly recommended by the community. See where they fit and feel nice before committing to metal.
- ▸Solid metal rings (e.g. the ElectroRing system) — excellent feel but sizing matters a lot. Order a sizing kit first and measure both erect and flaccid before buying the real ones. A ring that fits erect but slides off flaccid (or vice versa) is useless.
What's "triphase"? And is audiostim really the best approach?
Triphase is the effect of stereo signals crossing through electrodes that share a common negative return. The physics is endlessly debated and above most of our paygrade — but it feels great, and it's a big part of why audio-driven stereo boxes have become the community standard.
Is audiostim the best? Arguably yes, compared to what came before it. But this is very new territory. The emergence of FOC-based boxes in the last year or so has genuinely shaken things up — that fact is now up for debate. For audio-based play specifically, the community has been focused on audiostim since discovering input-based driving, and built-in box programs are rarely used once you experience what audio input can do.
Short version: if stereostim is your destination, audiostim is where the action is right now. If you want the cutting edge, keep an eye on FOC developments.
⚡ Recommended Starter Path
- Get a Coyote 3.0 for immediate community integration via e l e c t r o n and the arcade — or go straight to a 2B if budget allows and stereostim is your end goal.
- Skip the TENS 7000. Put that money toward proper e-stim kit.
- Start with pads alongside your insertable — cheap, repositionable, lets you map what sensations work for you.
- Target an E-Stim Systems aluminium insertable as your primary electrode, not a future upgrade. The Moaner is the classic starting point; the newer MWCBP is a strong alternative.
- Grab a cheap set of conductive rubber loops or Joanne's 3D-printed ones to experiment with rings before committing to metal.
- Join the Discord and ask questions — the community is genuinely helpful and has seen it all.
Welcome to the hobby. You're asking the right questions.
e l e c t r o n Beginner's Guide
e l e c t r o n is a browser-based e-stim signal generator used for live driving sessions. This guide explains its core parameters so you can understand what your driver is doing — and start experimenting yourself.
Getting Started: Volume Setup
Before anything else, set your levels safely:
- Set e l e c t r o n Volume to 50%.
- Set your power box's input level to medium (e.g. MA to 10 o'clock on a 312).
- Set your computer/device volume to a low number.
- Slowly raise the computer volume until you feel the waves. This gives you a safe baseline for future sessions.
Important: Always use the Ramp function when changing volume during a session. Never make sudden jumps. A rate of no more than 1.0%/sec is recommended — for example, ramping from 50% to 60% at 0.5%/sec takes 20 seconds.
Core Parameters
Basic Frequency
This is the primary carrier frequency — the fundamental "feeling" of the signal. Higher frequencies tend to feel more buzzy and surface-level; lower frequencies feel deeper and thudding. A good starting point is around 800 Hz. Explore the 400–1200 Hz range to find what you prefer.
Amplitude Modulation (AM)
AM makes the signal rhythmically louder and softer over time — like a tremolo effect. There are three AM settings:
- A.M. Depth — How much the volume varies. If volume is 50 and A.M. Depth is 20, the signal pulses between 30% and 70%.
- A.M. Frequency — The speed of the pulse. 1 Hz = one wave per second. Slow (under 1 Hz) gives deep, edging sensations. 2–3 Hz feels like fast throbbing. Above ~10 Hz is unlikely to be felt distinctly.
- A.M. Type — The shape of the pulse curve. Sine is the smoothest. Square is a hard ON/OFF toggle. Sawtooth and Triangle can feel prickly or ticklish.
Frequency Modulation (FM)
FM varies the pitch of the signal up and down — like a vibrato effect. This is what drives the DG-Lab Coyote via XToys.
- F.M. Depth — The range of pitch variation. If Frequency is 880 Hz and F.M. Depth is 30 Hz, the signal sweeps between 850 Hz and 910 Hz.
- F.M. Frequency — The speed of the sweep. Same scale as A.M. Frequency.
This guide covers the basics. For more in-depth discussion on signal design and settings, visit the #forum-discussions channel in the Discord — Sir Thorn's pinned beginner guide thread has additional tips and ongoing community Q&A.
Accessing the Media Library
To maintain a clean channel list, access to our extensive NSFW picture and video channels is opt-in.
How to Get Your Library Card
- Go to the
#role-selectchannel on Discord. - Find the "Library Card - Access XXX Channels" message.
- React to the message with the 📼 emoji.
- You will be granted the
@Library Cardrole and all NSFW channels will become visible.
Using the 24/7 Stimbot
Our Stimbots stream an audio signal directly into a voice channel 24/7 for you to enjoy. Here's how to connect.
Setup Instructions
- Go to your Discord User Settings (the gear icon ⚙️ next to your name).
- Navigate to the Voice & Video tab.
- Find the Output Device setting and use the dropdown menu to select the sound device that your power box is connected to.
- Close settings and join the
#Auto Drivingvoice channel. - You can now adjust the Stimbot's volume using the volume slider in Discord, and then slowly turn up the levels on your power box.
Important Notes
- REMEMBER: When you are finished, you must go back to your Discord Voice & Video settings and change your Output Device back to your headphones or speakers. Otherwise, you won't hear anyone speaking in other channels.
- You cannot speak in the Auto Driving channel. This is by design to ensure the bot's signal is clean for everyone.
- Cameras are welcome, and you can communicate with fellow riders using the text chat attached to the voice channel.
- This method works on mobile devices as long as you can route your phone's audio output to your stim box.
Playing in The Arcade
The Arcade is a voice channel where members share stim-compatible content via screen share. The stim signal is broadcast through Discord's audio — riders receive it just like Auto Driving, by routing Discord's output to their power box.
How The Arcade Works
A host shares their screen and enables "Share Stream Audio" in Discord. Whatever audio their software outputs gets broadcast live to the channel — riders receive it by swapping their Discord output device to their power box, exactly as with Auto Driving.
Hosts can use whatever method works for them. Popular options include:
- XToys — connects to compatible games and outputs a stim signal based on in-game events
- Milinova — a dedicated e-stim game with built-in signal output
- Restim and other Funscript players — play back scripted stim patterns synced to video or audio
- Any software that outputs a stim signal as audio can be shared this way
Key difference from Auto Driving: Arcade signals react to what's happening in real time — game events, script timing, or interactive triggers. It's dynamic and unpredictable in the best way.
Rider Setup (Receiving the Signal)
As a rider, setup is identical to the Auto Driving channel:
- Open Discord User Settings → Voice & Video.
- Under Output Device, select the audio device your power box is connected to.
- Join
#The Arcadevoice channel. - Click on the host's stream to receive both the video and the stim signal.
- Slowly increase the volume on your power box to a comfortable level.
- When done, remember to switch your output device back to your headphones/speakers.
Host Setup (Running a Session)
Hosting works the same regardless of which software you're using:
- Join
#The Arcadevoice channel. - Use the Share Screen function in Discord on your game or stim software.
- Make sure to check "Share Stream Audio" — this is what carries the stim signal to riders.
- Start your session. The audio output will be broadcast live to everyone in the channel.
Not sure what to run? Ask in the server's text channels — the community is happy to recommend tools and titles. Check the #The Arcade events tab for upcoming hosted sessions too.
Connecting a DG-Lab Coyote
There are now two ways to connect your Coyote to e l e c t r o n. Both are valid — pick whichever suits your setup.
Direct Bluetooth via e l e c t r o n
No extra software. Hit Enable Coyote BT on the e l e c t r o n player page, pair your Coyote, and ride. Works on Chrome (desktop) and Bluefy (iOS).
Full setup guide →Audio Bridge through XToys
Routes e l e c t r o n's audio output through XToys to the Coyote. Some riders report smoother signal transitions with this method — good if Direct BT feels too raw.
See guide below ↓XToys Method — Windows Guide
- Use Google Chrome as your browser for both e l e c t r o n and XToys.
- Open e l e c t r o n in one browser tab.
- Open XToys in another tab with a layout that includes a DG-Lab Coyote block.
- In the XToys Coyote block, click "Select Pattern" and choose "System Audio" from the "My Patterns" tab. Install any plugins XToys prompts you for.
- Note the "Basic Parameters Frequency" and "F.M. Depth" values in e l e c t r o n.
- In XToys, set the "Frequency Map" using this formula:
Low = Frequency - F.M. DepthHigh = Frequency + F.M. Depth
- You must adjust these Low and High values in XToys whenever the driver changes the signal in e l e c t r o n. It's best to coordinate frequency ranges with your driver beforehand. Tip: The VU Meter at the bottom of e l e c t r o n shows live Left and Right channel frequencies — you can read the lowest and highest numbers there in real time to set your XToys range accurately.
Critical Step: Rerouting Sound
You must route your browser's audio output correctly. Type sound settings in the Windows search bar, go to "App volume and device preferences" under Advanced sound options, and manage the volume for Google Chrome. It's recommended to mute System Sounds and other apps to avoid surprises. The application EarTrumpet is a popular alternative for managing app audio.
macOS & Mobile Guide
The process for other systems is largely the same, but you will need a different application to handle audio routing.
Troubleshooting
Antivirus Warning on XToys Utilities
It is a known issue that Windows Defender and other antivirus programs may flag XToys utilities as a trojan. This is a false positive. The tools are flagged because they need to monitor low-level system processes to function correctly. The solution is to temporarily disable your antivirus during the installation of the XToys plugins.